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How to roast chicken
EAT’S EASY By Ernest Reynoso Gala
Thursday, September 27, 2007
philstar.com
There is no love sincerer than the love of food. — George Bernard Shaw
Roasting chicken is very easy, and I never forgot what my instructors, owner two-star Michelin chef Allain Llorca and his sous chef Eric Goumand, told us the day we arrived at Llorca’s world-renowned restaurant, Moulin De Mougins in the French Riviera.
He asked us in his strong French accent, ”Gentlemen, are you hungry?” and we promptly replied in the affirmative. Our flight was delayed from Milan, we had skipped breakfast, and it was nearing lunch.
The chefs told us, “We make roast chicken because you only need a few ingredients, and you never go wrong with chicken!” We then proceeded to the kitchen and cooked buttered roasted chicken with herb rice pilaf, thus the beginning of our internship in this famous restaurant of the stars.
When buying chicken, the appearance should be light in color and not dark yellowish or brown. Any dark color in the breast area or in the tip of the wings indicates that the chicken might be old stock; look for a fresher type of poultry. It is important to smell: There should be no foul odor to ensure you get the best quality. Like beef, a young chicken tends to have softer meat, while an older chicken will have a tougher texture, though it will be more flavorful because it has more fat. After purchasing chicken from the supermarket, refrigerate it at once to retain its quality. If you are not cooking it within the day, store it in the freezer, and only thaw when needed. Chicken can be kept in the freezer up to a month.
There are three ways of thawing chicken. The first is getting it from the freezer and dipping it in a bowl of cold water. Leave for an hour, after which you check. If it is still frozen, replace the water, leave for another hour and continue this process until it is properly thawed out.
The second method is simply transferring it from the freezer to the refrigerator and letting it thaw. The size will determine the length of time in the refrigerator. For a one-kilo or less chicken, it will take 12 hours. A chicken one kilo up to two kilos will take 12 to 24 hours or one day.
The third is by defrosting via microwave though a lot of the flavor will be lost as the juices inside would dry up. Thaw for eight minutes per kilo.
After thawing, it is important to remove the tip of the wings with a knife or scissors. Chefs discard this part to ensure the food is not contaminated and safe. The neck is removed and can be used to make chicken stock or soup. The top part of the ass should be taken out with a knife and washed well under running water to remove dirt and other deposits that can spoil the taste of your chicken. Some chefs remove the fat, but I like to keep some of it because this gives good flavor and keeps the meat moist.
There are many methods to check if the chicken is done right. One is to check it with a meat thermometer. If the inside temperature is 180° Fahrenheit, then it is cooked well. Make sure the thermometer is placed away from the bone to ensure an accurate reading.
Another is by pricking the legs with a fork or stick, if the blood oozing out is black, then it is done, but if the blood is red, return the chicken into the and cook for 15 minutes more.
The third way is to grab one leg and shake up and down, the same movement as if you’re shaking a person’s hand. If there is no resistance, then it is ready.
Roasting chicken brings back memories of Moulin de Mougins. Chef Allain Llorca, chef Eric Goumand, Carlo Benedicto and I all sat at the table overlooking the Garden. The dish was brought to our table, where celebrities such as Sylvester Stallone, Michael Douglas, Danny De Vito, Demi Moore all sit when they visit. We talked about the Philippines, the culinary arts, upcoming lessons in the restaurant, the Cannes Film Festival, and the Annual AIDS Foundation of Elizabeth Taylor to be hosted by Sharon Stone in the coming week. Truly an honor and a privilege, that lunch was an experience I will never forget, to be part of something special, and I’m glad to share some of the lessons I have learned with you. Vive le France et Philippines!
French MediterrAnean Roast Buttery Chicken
1-1/2 kilos whole chicken
1 tablespoon rock salt,
1 teaspoon coarsely ground peppercorn
2 lemons, cut in half crosswise
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves or
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 big head crushed garlic with skin on,
1 cup melted butter
For the sidings:
8 big salad tomatoes
2 medium eggplants
Preheat oven to 375°F or 185°C. Put foil on roasting pan. Put metal rack on pan.
Clean the chicken. Remove the ass and fat inside the cavity, and chop off the wing tips.
Rub chicken with rock salt, pepper, rosemary, garlic, and juice of two lemons. Insert four lemon halves into the cavity. Tie legs with a string. Pour 1/2 cup of the melted butter inside the cavity and on top of chicken. Put on metal rack.
Arrange the tomatoes and eggplant in a separate foil-lined tray. Pour the remaining 1/2 cup butter. Roast 40 minutes.
Roast chicken for one hour and 30 minutes. Serve with rice or pasta or salad greens.
For the sidings:
Make a 1/4-inch deep cross at the bottom of each tomato. Put on a tray, and sprinkle with two teaspoons rock salt.
Slice the eggplants diagonally into one-inch thick pieces. Arrange on a tray and sprinkle with one teaspoon rock salt.
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